4. Four, quatro, Hatara

4. Four, quatro, Hatara 

After what should have been a six hour journey, courtesy of Sri Lanka Rail this was extended to 10.5 hrs, changing trains at Anuradhapurna, then onto the local branch line to vavuiyn.  The later journey, should have had 'fasten seat belt' sign on, alas no seat belt sign nor seat belts or doors that close nor windows that open, but some very friendly locals made sure we did not get sent to the shunting yard, hurrying us to the train on  the  next platform where we waited for the next 35 min, 28 deg 90 % humid.   Never have I been on a bumpier train ride, I was sure we'd derailed at least twice.

Vavuniya was the first place where we have not been touted, that was very disconcerting when we had to start walking to the  hotel, asking directions from a kind constable, who then commandeered for us a three wheel taxi.  What did concern me was that the constable also gave us his phone number,holding my hand to write it thereon,  in case we have trouble.   Stayed at the salubrious Swarka hotel, clean spartan but the Hindu temple across the road tolling its bell at 0400 and 0700 was a reminder where we were.

A morning walk around   Vavuniya showed that it was a vibrant and busy place, where Andrew got his traditional photo with one of the local plods.   

Andrew's new best friend

The police in Sri Lanka wear a brown uniform, usually no firearms, or batons or other stuff we have become so reliant upon.  The fact that the are more than enough  soldiers on every other street corner usually carrying an AK 47.   I won't ever complain that I haven a police car to get me around, as the police here either walk, catch the bus, or ride bicycles.   It is not uncommon to see soldiers patrolling on their bicycles fully armed.  

Local bus to next destination Jaffna.   Bus fleet if anything is worse the further north we go.  The bus to Jaffna was another experience.  Fortunately we were placed on the bus early rear left side.  Full to capacity when we left, but that didn't stop the conductor pushing the same number again onto the bus over the next 4 hours.   And stopping to let passengers on and off.....not common where only one or two got on or off.    They had lao sized seats, three into out two.   my bum just will not shrink that much!,,,  No air conditioning, likely, if you were lucky the window is openable and you get blasted with the passing breeze.    

Relatively uncrowded for the minute.

About half an hour into the journey we were stooped at an Army check point, where all  foreigners were called off, passports checked, photo- copies demanded (which we couldn't get to, without unpacking all the pack) It was a thorough going over, (name rank serial number ) never aggressive, or cause for worry, but it does bring home how close Sri Lanka has been to war, and strife for decades.   

The landscape up north towards and past Jaffna is very  similar to what we would see in northern South Australia, Broken Hill area: dry windswept low brushland, not lush at all.  There are stretches where there are signs prohibiting stopping, and land mine signs  every 100 m.   No place for metal detecting I'm sure.

Not a place to practice tap dancing.

In Jaffna particularly the effects of the civil war are evident in many sad and at times surprising ways.  The sight of manned bunker type checkpoints, armed soldiers everywhere, and every government building has a fully armed soldier out the front.  The are still tens of thousands of internally displaced persons(refugees) in the country, still scared to return to Jaffna. There is clear evidence of whole sections of outer townships having been destroyed and abandoned, many damaged /destroyed buildings in the town.    

One of hundreds of abandoned and destroyed buildings courtesy of the civil war.

When visiting their star attraction the Dutch fort, it is evident that it had been both neglected for a generation, and a three hundred year old church that once stood there is now rubble.    Most of the locals use bicycles, which is a hang over from the war years when fuels,  when available, cost 10 times the normal price.  The railaway line was pulled up between Jaffna and Vavuniya. (currently being rebuilt) and local  infrastructure , roads water, sewerage, all neglected.   There is clear evidence of many UN type agencies in town Red Cross, World.Vision, etc, which only begins to indicate the tragedy in human life the war tolled.   Even talking to people in other places, during the civil war, the whole country was under martial law, food was not plentiful, etc etc.   

Hired a tuk tuk for the day.  Satheed ws our driver and for the five of so hours it cost r 4000.    First stop was the fort, I'm not sure the rebuilding would keep the purists happy, but it is certainly an impressive building.

The highlight of the Library visit was the OHS compliance with the painters on the cupola on the top of the four story 19th century buildings.  I'm sure we just couldn't see the scaffold, harnesses and ropes.    And drop sheets...nah.!!!!!   

Note the painters on the pointy bits.

Then we visited several Hindu temples, a couple of stupas, and the nahawarei well which is reputed to have no bottom.   Don't we all wish!!  At kirimale, from the car park it was shoes off, and inside the actual temple it was shirts off....for the blokes...that was scary enough, it became very clear that abc is quite pale.   This is the pace where there is a sacred pool, supposedly of fresh water, adjacent to the ocean, which abc had to take a swim in.  If that was fresh water, the sea must be pretty horrid.     

Spot the non local.

At this particular temple there was a large group of young school children six to seven years  old x 100 or so.  they did marvel at abc swimming,  they were the typical boisterous at times naughty (boys) children.  In such a dusty and hot place, what cruel person decided that cricket whites and dresses were the uniform.  They all looked spotless.    They all wanted their pictures taken and thought it hilarious to see their pictures on the 'big' screen.  The iPad mini is a real novelty in Sri Lanka.  Whilst we are but amateurs in respect of using it, the locals are fascinated that it can be used as a camera as well.  It really negates the carrying of a camera now.

The spectators.

Look at me look at me!!

Interestingly too, there  was a large group of mostly young Buddhist monks ranging from 12-20 years.   They did not have to take their shirts off...but I suppose their garments would have fallen off if they too the top bits off.  They were obviously fascinated with the garish, if not ghoulish nature of the Hindu gods and goddesses.  Some of then look downright scary(not the. Monks). 

We let the driver select the lunch stop, which we did at the Zam Zam Hotel in Chunnakam.   We generously shouted lunch @ $2.50 a head, and could not have eaten more.  A couple of soldiers eating there too, rifles leaning up against the tables.  Up north they eat in the Indian fashion, with the fingers, so we were most offended when they brought out the 'classy' spoons. Well NJC was relieved.  

Eat with the right, wipe with the left.  Simple hygiene rule. Or is that the  other way around!!!!

More temples and stupas, then the driver clearly had. Hankering for ice cream, because the rio ice cream shop across the road from the main and ginormous temple in Jaffna, was vey nice.  Kithule is a honey like substance from the kithule tree, makes great ice cream but maple syrup sweet

Met two Dutch trainee physiotherapists, Pamela and  Regina, who are spending nine weeks at an orphanage in Kandy.   The old farts escorted them back from the 'US restaurant' as it was dark, and the wandering cows are scary.  The US restaurant's menu seems to believe prestige is shown by the picture of a white chef.   Doesn't impress me, and I am sure  that if I went into the kitchen, we could have them for false advertising.

I'm convinced.  The white guy on the menu instilled the confidence we needed to eat there 

Stayed at the sawas hotel at $25.00. Night fan only.

Now heading south to Anuradhapurna,by local bus total of $3.50 each, 4 hours.  Seats have not got wider nor bums smaller.  Lots of temples, but this time Buddhist.

Relaxing at Levi's guest house.

Please everybody, between you and me, don't tell NJC she looks pale!!!

But not made for chubby westerners.